This free-range lifestyle does mean that cooking it can be a bit of a culinary Russian roulette. Thankfully, the days of birds being hung so long that they turned green are largely a thing of the past, but game’s full flavour is still infinitely more interesting than most intensively farmed meat. Feel free to tell me I’m wrong below the line. Though the game industry is certainly not perfect, as an omnivore my preference is to eat a wild or semi-wild animal from a sustainable, environmentally responsible source – not always a given with game – than one that’s spent its entire life in captivity. I t’s that time of year when the British countryside echoes with the sound of shotguns and scolded spaniels, when almost everything furred and feathered that has a season is in season, and can be picked up, often surprisingly cheaply, from farm shops, markets and game dealers.
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